“The general consensus in our industry as the dust starts to settle is that the biggest problem we face is over-supply and over-consumption, which in turn has created massive waste,” said Omer Ahmed, Artistic Milliners CEO. It will take time for the denim industry to understand the depth of damage caused by the pandemic. co-founder David Hieatt simply put it: “If you want to be really good for the environment, start by only making stuff that people want.” If more brands make the right product-and less of it-the industry stands a chance to correct its wrongs, in terms of the environment. We will need to focus more on basic and timeless design made locally.” Taking responsibility “Making people believe that their six months old wardrobe is already out of fashion is an aberration. ![]() If we want to have a fulfilling life, we have to stop now with massive consumption. “Let’s not deceive ourselves or expect magical results. Reducing collections, and thus eliminating the need to produce more, is a novel concept, but it requires decision makers to behave contrary to how most operations are set up, noted Lucie Germser, founder of Sphynx, a consultant business with a denim pedigree. “This is one of the ways we intend to pivot our operations, by shifting from two annual seasons into a yearly six capsule cycle, as well as expand into new garment categories,” he said. Outland Denim founder and CEO James Bartle expects to see less emphasis on traditional seasons and more capsule collections in the next 18 months-a strategy that he is already putting in place for his own award-winning brand. Shipping denim to stores in July when it’s 80 degrees outside or denim shorts in February when it’s 30 degrees is antiquated, yet we all still do it,” she said.īrands are re-thinking the traditional fashion calendar, which if brands follow-through with the plan, may eventually uproot how and when products are made and sold. “The idea that customers will want to buy new clothing every season is outdated. The brands that are taking this opportunity to really get to know their customers and pivot to meet their customers where they are now, will be the brands that survive, Bruno added. “Everyone changed what they wore overnight.” “Many brands and retailers did not have the financial means to weather the storm,” she said. Unfortunately, Mary Bruno, founder of Life After Death Denim, said a lot of brands will not be able to withstand the uncertainty of the denim market. “Manufacturers, suppliers, and the financial industry around denim will have to shift their ability to work with smaller companies,” he said, noting that this means lower or no minimums and traditional finance either “getting creative or getting out.” ![]() The driving force will be the digital consumer,” he said. “Eighteen months from now, more businesses will emerge or be optimized to sell smaller and faster. This mode of consumption, he added, will eventually trickle down the supply chain. Walmart Building 'Systemic Change' to Supply Chain ![]() “Covid-19 has exposed the vulnerabilities of businesses without an online presence.” “I’ve been telling retailers over a decade now that they have to have an online arm of their business to survive,” Malone said. It’s a shift that denim designer Maurice Malone said was a long time coming. It’s going to be a bit of a watershed.”Ĭontributing to this shakeout is retail’s digital evolution that was accelerated by mandatory store closures worldwide and social distancing guidelines. I think that with the net impact on retail from the Covid-19 crisis, I see a smaller industry coming out of it. “You have some structural overcapacity, partially fueled by an industry that has a lot of extra capacity chasing a limited number of orders. ![]() “It’s going to go through a real shakeout,” said first-time Rivet 50 honoree Dan Feibus, CEO of Vidalia Mills Co. A second wave and more shutdowns have many bracing for another round of bankruptcies and closures. Though the jeanswear category is faring better than expected, compared to the start of the pandemic when consumers zealously touted wearing pajamas and sweats as they worked remotely from their homes, business is far from usual. An international group of executives, retailers, creatives and influencers nominated and voted for by their peers, the Rivet 50 provides a collective outlook on the trials and tribulations that lay ahead for the denim sector, as well as the opportunities within its grasp. Trying to predict and plan for anything in the uncertain age of Covid may be a futile exercise, but if any group has a pulse on what the next 18 months hold for the global denim industry, it may be the 2020 Rivet 50 honorees. Reporting by: Arthur Friedman, Christopher Hall, Sarah Jones, Glenn Taylor, Liz Warren and Angela Velasquez
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